That evening, at the top of the legendary 6-hectare Clos des Goisses vineyard, the sunset was sublime. We were in the heart of Champagne, in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, with the Côte des Blancs in front of us and the Montagne de Reims behind.
Antoine Julliard, Commercial Director, pulled two bottles from his wicker basket: the Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2018, the House’s signature cuvee, and the Clos des Goisses 2014. Tasting these two distinctive wines in situ, alongside Francesco Cosci, was a privilege. “A truly grand moment!” he exclaimed.
The terroir of Clos des Goisses and the adjacent La Rémissonne parcel—both 100% Pinot Noir—is unique: full southern exposure sheltered from the wind, a steep 45% slope, and exceptional chalky soil that lends elegance to the Pinot Noirs. The first Clos des Goisses vintage dates back to 1935, a time when no one dared to produce 100% Pinot Noir. Philipponnat took the risk, and today, it has become its hallmark.
Philipponnat champagnes boast remarkable intensity and freshness, partly due to oak vinification. The House extensively uses oak for its reserve wines, which make up 30% of its Brut blends. Its perpetual reserve, started in the 1950s, is refreshed annually with the latest harvest. Clos des Goisses is vinified entirely in oak barrels—a deliberate choice that adds depth, complexity, and length while ensuring a minimum aging period of 5 to 6 years. This oak influence also enhances the Champagne’s presence, making it a perfect match for the most delicate dishes. Philipponnat champagnes are undeniably made for gastronomy.
Tasting the Philipponnat Non Dosé and Royale Réserve highlights the meticulous work on dosage: same base, same vintage, same vinification—yet the dosage changes everything. Next, we explored two single-vineyard cuvées: Le Léon 2015 and La Rémissonne 2015, both 100% Pinot Noir. Same vintage, same grape variety, same vinification, same dosage, but two distinct historic terroirs. Le Léon, a 100% Grand Cru Aÿ, presents white pepper notes, while La Rémissonne, a Premier Cru from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, offers aromas of small red fruits. This is true vigneron craftsmanship, showcasing terroir expression at its finest.
These Champagnes truly shine at the table. The Clos des Goisses 2015 left us all in agreement: this sun-kissed vintage works wonders at Philipponnat. Balance, aromatic complexity, structure, elegance, aging potential—everything is there! These three cuvees embody the beauty of the 2015 vintage, now available on the market. “I love the patina, the texture, and the aromatic evolution of aged champagnes,” says Francesco. Sommeliers, restaurateurs, and wine merchants, you can already enjoy these 2015 cuvees—the passage of time will only enhance them further.
Florence Corbalan
Color: golden yellow with brilliant reflections and fine, persistent effervescence.
Nose: incredibly complex, featuring ripe yellow fruit aromas (peach, apricot), alongside brioche, toasted hazelnuts, and gingerbread.
Palate: a crisp, precise attack with vibrant acidity balancing the wine’s richness. The palate is powerful yet creamy, echoing the nose’s aromas with additional notes of candied fruit and citrus zest. A pronounced minerality brings tension and freshness.
Pairing: perfect with refined dishes like lobster, scallops, or aged cheese.
Comment: a Champagne of great complexity, combining power and finesse, richness and freshness. Still young, it will gain further complexity with age but is already a delight to drink.
Color: brilliant golden yellow with subtle copper reflections, fine bubbles, and elegant effervescence.
Nose: highly refined and expressive, revealing stone fruit aromas (white peach, apricot) intertwined with white floral notes (acacia, linden) and lightly toasted brioche. With aeration, saline mineral hints, roasted hazelnuts, and marzipan emerge.
Palate: a lively, precise attack with remarkable freshness. Creamy texture balanced by vibrant tension, offering a perfect harmony of power and finesse. Ripe fruit flavors (pear, apricot) merge with subtle toasted notes and brioche. The well-integrated acidity enhances vibrancy while maintaining roundness. Finish is long and pure, with lingering fresh fruit and toasted bread aromas, along with delicate hints of honey and light spices.
Pairing: grilled John Dory with Espelette pepper.
Comment: a bottle of great complexity and elegance.
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