Like other famous widows in Champagne, widow Godart has grown vines and wines during the war. In 1962 she is rejoined by her son Paul who spent 28 years at Moët & Chandon. Her grandson François, together with his aunt, now manage the estate with beautiful ethics that highlight his ten cuvees.
His estate covers nine hectares on the growths of Moussy, Pierry, Chavot, Vinay, but also Bergères-les-Vertus and Festigny (recently bought) and includes the three grape varieties in the following proportions: 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir. The vineyard is maintained in integrated farming with planting in massal selection; grass cover of the slopes between the rows even on the 28-degree hillsides; ploughing in summer and winter; the preservation of old vines and complantation of young stocks; with at least a qualitative and not quantitative choice of clones. Veuve Godart’s Domain favours by-plot selection and totals 51 plots of land with different exposures (North and acid, South and solar …) enriching the blend.
Like the elders, François lives and listens the nature, and determines the dates of harvest as from the 1st moon of January; he chooses it during the 9th waning moon, i.e. at maturity to get a satisfying acidity-natural sugar balance. His wines are matured in concrete, steel or stainless steel enamelled vats, and do not undergo malolactic fermentation to guarantee freshness at ageing.
Late harvest provides his cuvees extra aroma and fragrance. Bottling in the end of March and a long stay in the cellar (3 to 4 years) give them an indisputable delicacy. Its range comprises not less than 5 references of Brut: brut, dry, half-dry, very dry; these classics have been elaborated by his father. He created a bone dry cuvee consisting of the three varieties in equal parts, stemming from one and only harvest―currently 2011―with no addition of reserve wines, elaborated with three growths ―Moussy, Pierry and Vinay― and benefitting from three years of ageing, a delight, one of the Véron Champagne guide’s favourite. “The dry champagnes represent half of the production, but our regular customers also appreciate Rosé and Blanc de Blancs, two Champagnes full of lightness and fineness”.
The wines of this craftsman appear much better to the visitors as they are elaborated in a sustainable way. On the estate, the equipment wash-waters and rainwater are salvaged for ecological reasons. Champagne Veuve Godard follows HACCP (Hasard Analysis Critical Control Point) guidelines. Its site of production is protected in geobiology, its vineyard rebalanced naturally to limit inputs.
François admits that he and his team are in perpetual research. He dedicates all his energy in giving the best to the vineyard and his wines, and to welcome 7 days a week the 8 to 10,000 customers who, after the visit of Champagne Veuve Godart, communicate his address through the grapevine to others. His Champagnes are delicious and have a good price-quality ratio (€13.80 to €18). Ready to go?
Marie-Caroline Bourrellis
— www.champagne-veuve-godart-fils.com —
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