2012 international year of the co-operatives

France Janvry

2012

International Year of the Co-operatives

The general assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2012 “international year of the co-operatives”, a tribute to the contribution of these organizations in the reduction of poverty, the creation of jobs and in social integration. The Champagne region today has 136 viticultural co-operatives which represent a real force in the economic landscape of the area. They are made up of 14,000 vine growers, exploiting 13,350 hectares.
The first viticultural co-operatives were created at the beginning of the 20th century: in 1904 in Chamery and in 1919 in Leuvrigny. These pioneers provided trade and members but did not market a Champagne brand. It was not until the 20s that Raoul Collet in Aÿ, and Mailly sell bottles in their names. By pooling their means of produc-

tion and by carrying out significant investments, these new structures made it possible for the producers to sell wines of quality and not to be completely dependent on the trade merchants. Today, they are 40 practicing trade. They dispatched, on the whole, not less than 27 million bottles in 2010.

Prélèvement à l'aide d'une pipette de meunier en passage sous-bois dans le nouveau chai de la coopérative

The co-operative of Germigny, Janvry and Rosnais is one of them. Its 160 members exploit a field of 120 hectares out of the northern Champagne region, around Rheims. It sold 800,000 bottles in 2011, not under only one brand but two: Prestige des Sacres and Champagne de l'Auch! This “coop”, as its sales manager Frederic Gauthier explains, is “atypical because it organized the marketing of these bottles by opening cellars to the public at the same time as their production!”
The Association of the Champagne-Ardenne Sommeliers went to discover it in mid-

January. The president, Yves Chapier—elder formed in the ‘Grande Maison’, of a remarkable erudition on wine, men and tools—and the vice-president, Jean-Pierre Hubaille—man of the terrain at the service of wine for over forty years at the restaurant of La Vigneraie in Rheims—invited a figure of the area, Frederic Bouché, to join them for a morning meeting.

Exemplary student at the High School Gustave Eiffel of Rheims, graduated upon completion of his studies, he enters the Assiette Champenoise like one embraces a religion. Initially he works with Jean-Pierre Lallement in Châlons-sur-Vesle, and then follows the setup of the Château de la Muire in Tinqueux, with Arnaud, the son of only 24 who has taken on the challenge of the kitchens. The Head Sommelier was awarded a 1st star by the Michelin Guide in 2001, then a second one in 2005. Ambassador of Champagne, and more precisely of Krug, he is also from Burgundy, his best sale being Romanée Conti. He was as a delicious tasting companion discoursing with humility as much with the hosts as with other present members, such as Michel Larchez, sales representative.

After a stroll in the vineyard, Jean-Christophe Lenfant, the oenologist of the co-

operative, opened the doors of the vat house to us, unveiling a recently restored manual press “Dollat”, but also presenting four membrane presses “Bucher” and a
traditional “Coquard” with a tilted tray.
On the investment side, tanks were acquired in 2001 and 2004 enabling their use for the transfer by gravitation for successive fermentations, as well as other tanks allowing splitting the batches in order to preserve the typicity of the wines. “A beautiful tool!” the Sommeliers exclaimed, that permits Jean-Christophe to vinify the 120 hectares by himself with, for some wines, a passage in wooden barrels of 300 litres in the new wine storehouse. This is in order to give these wines “the adequate structure and expression”, underlines Yves Chapier.
This event was followed by a tasting of still wines of 2011, the first of the year! The Meunier revealed to be of a very charming fruitiness; Pinot noir of beautiful complexity; and the Chardonnay had “a certain exoticism”, emphasized Frederic Bouché.
As for the Cuvees of the range, all proposed a great freshness in the register of delicacy. The Cuvée du Chapitre, 100% Meunier, appreciated by all, crowned the tasting. But... surprise... surprise... Just before parting, Jean-Christophe Lenfant revealed to the members of the association, in a sneak preview, his cuvee Signature that is to come. It was in unison acclaimed for its ultimate harmony.
Not yet on the market, may be a gift idea to be retained for Christmas 2012?

M.C.Bourrellis

Les Sommeliers de Champagne dégustant vins clairs et Cuvées Prestige des Sacres dans le nouveau laboratoire de la coopérative Germigny

Cooperative vinicole de Germigny Janvry Rosnay
rue de Germigny - 51390 JANVRY
Tél.: 33 (0)3 26 03 63 40
Fax.: 33 (0)3 26 03 66 93