Between Languedoc and Provence, alike the people of the Camargue, the wine growers from the Costières de Nîmes are proud of their origins and resolutely turning towards future. Invited by the Syndicate, SommelierS International went to the discovery of an AOC that strives to promote and gain recognition for its wines.
Geographically in Provence, administratively in the Languedoc-Roussillon region, the Costières de Nîmes are the most southern vineyard of the Rhone Valley. Their potential production area extends over 25,000 hectares. Currently, 12,000 hectares are planted with vines, among which 4,500 in AOC* where 220,000 hectolitres are vinified: 60% red, 30% rosé, the rest in white. They also produce Vin de Pays. They total 404 producers, 15 cooperatives, 96 cellars.
We are not going to tell the whole History of the region since its Greek origins. However it is important to underline that the Costières are classified VDQS** since 1950 under the name of Costières du Gard, then AOC in 1986. In 1989, the name of the appellation changes to refocus on its identity and becomes Costières de Nîmes. Thanks to this classification, the vineyard faces a rapid expansion.
Philippe Lamour is the one who gave the vineyard an impetus. The region had suffered from phylloxera in the 19th century and mass production was at its height, to the detriment of quality. As President of the Costières du Gard, he undertook a huge campaign of development: soil survey, new planting, and modernization of the cellars... A long-term, unremitting work with enthusiast wine growers to make of the AOC a rising star of the Rhone Valley today.
With the latter, the Costières share the type of soil, the varietals, strong rain seasonality, exceptional sunshine, and the best treatment for vines: the Mistral. Its terroir is composed of “gress”, ancient terraces with pebbles that distinguish themselves here by their very big depth, sometimes up to 15 meters. This stony alluvial deposit, often clayey, provides to stocks a draining surface, and subsoil that keeps water: the vineyard is more resistant to drought.
By contrast, its nearness with the sea gives it a more temperate climate than the rest of the Valley. The sea air crossing the Petite Camargue, fresh and moist, meets the heat stored during the day by pebbles, creating an effect of beneficial convection, and strengthening the thermal amplitudes between day and night. This maritime breeze permits the vines to breathe even in August. This peculiarity is known as protecting the freshness, the pure fruitiness of wines and the fineness of the aromas.
The Costières also are a southern terroir through their grape varieties: Grenache Noir and Shiraz completed of Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Cinsault for the red wines; Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, but also Clairette, Bourboulenc, Macabeu and Vermentino (Rolle) for the white ones. This diversity gives the AOC’s wines thousands of nuances. Aromatic intensity, elegance, generosity, roundness, they bear typical notes of scrubland but also a gourmet fruitiness. They thumb their nose at those who still think the southern wines are too powerful and heavy!
The Costières de Nîmes define themselves as wines for pleasure and fun but also for gastronomy. When young, the reds evoke red and wild berries. After 3-5 years, they evolve towards typed aromas of violets, black olives, and soft spices. The expressive, lively and tasty whites develop generous fruity notes of citrus, white flowers and exotic fruits. Rosés, meanwhile, ample with a long finish, offer the greed of a whole pallet of small red fruits as strawberry or raspberry.
But the AOC also produces wines with good ageing capacity. Great wines of domains follow two schools: one, modern, lets dominate Shiraz; the other, traditional, gives pride of place to Grenache. For fun or gastronomy, the wines get the best out of pairings with Provence typical dishes, or, if you dare, with Chinese cuisine.
Event organized by the Syndicate of the Costières de Nîmes, “Duo Vignerons” (Wine growers Duets) comes within the scope of the will for communication and highlighting of the AOC by the domains. Every year, from May to June, a wine grower from the Costières joins with a vintner from another appellation of the Valley. The aim: show the common points with the Rhone valley and the specificities of their appellation. What they share? A philosophy, a terroir, varietals... a passion!
Some meet depending on the personality of their wines, with the same varietals on different terroirs, like lively Diane de Puymorin's Château d'Or et de Gueules who chose Château la Nerthe. New generations share the will to see elsewhere how they work, to vinify other varietals, to open their wines to more distant horizons, to export their expertise. Others combine through the way they work their wines: search for elegance and fineness, for purity and minerality, mark them with the print of the terroir. A lot work with care for their environment. Their inspiration: respect of the soils and the plant. Like Brice Bolognini and Eric Pfifferling who define themselves as “grapes’ accompanist”. The two of them produce outstanding wines, very different, but both in a real process of adaptation to the soil, without additives, keeping the very essence of the grape in their wines.
All of the wine growers want to make “clean” wines, respectful of the earth but also of the consumer, sometimes in organic or integrated farming; thus ensure the continued existence of their work and leave an estate with a preserved environment to the coming generations.
What characterizes the wine growers of the Costières is their commitment in the assertion and recognition of their appellation, like charming Elisabeth Glas (Domaine de Poulvarel in Costières) who joined with Coralie Goumarre (Domaine de Galevan, Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Both are members of the association Femmes Vignes Rhône… Also a way to promote the profession of “woman wine grower”!
The Costières are deeply rooted in the city of Nîmes and are inseparable from the place and its events. During the feria, the Syndicate has given us a quick overview of the town's traditions.
Nîmes' major figure of course is Michel Hermet, president of the Union of the French Sommellerie, and his Wine Bar Le Cheval Blanc. In front of the arena, the restaurant proposes tasty dishes, made with daily fresh produce. Melon and lomito, fillet of codfish and aioli, its famous brandade, carefully chosen meat, selected fish, a refined cuisine with no frills. The team exudes consideration and kindness. Under the stone vaults, this warm bistrot-brasserie mingles local artists' paintings, antiques hunted by the host and quotations about wine. In the entrance, two beautiful showcases display wonderful torero suits. In the backyard, a lovely terrace will permit you to enjoy the delights of the menu in the calm and shadow.
After a night at Hotel les Doctrinaires in Beaucaire, confusing by its History, we headed for Château Mourgue du Grès for a final tasting of the Costières wines presented by the producers. An opportunity to confirm our favourites of the day before and make more ample knowledge with the wine growers.
Our Provençal escapade ended together with all the wine growers, under the vine arbour of the Chateau where Anne and François Collard showed us infinite hospitality and kindness. Friendly atmosphere and southern fresh dishes: Carpaccio of zucchini and feta cheese, Aubergines filled with vegetable and grapes with a Mushroom pie, then Pélardon cheese, to finish with a Cherry soup of delightful and welcome freshness.
Huge thanks to everyone involved in these beautiful encounters and convivial moments shared with enthusiast men and women committed in the promotion of their AOC, under the sun of Provence, to the sound of cicadas ... To make us regret having to go back to Bordeaux!
Sylvia Van der Velden
*AOC : Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/ Protected designation of origin: French top quality wines).
**VDQS : vin délimité de qualité supérieure: label guaranteeing quality of wine.
Diane DE PUYMORIN - Château d'Or et de Gueules - Costières de Nîmes
Fanette FESSY - Domaine Galus - Costières de Nîmes
Henri-Claude AMADIEU - Pierre Amadieu - GigondasBrice BOLOGNINI - Mas Mellet - Costières de Nîmes
Eric PFIFFERLING - Domaine de l'Anglore - TavelFrançois COLLARD - Château Mourgues du Grès - Costières de Nîmes
Jean-Benoît CAVALIER - Château Lascaux - Pic Saint LoupMichel GASSIER - Château de Nages - Costières de Nîmes
Vincent MAUREL - Clos Saint Jean - Châteauneuf-du-PapeElisabeth GLAS - Domaine de Poulvarel - Costières de Nîmes
Coralie GOUMARRE - Domaine Galévan - Châteauneuf-du-PapeNicolas RICOME - Château de Valcombe - Costières de Nîmes
Yves ORLIAC - Domaine de l'Hortus - Pic Saint Loup.
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