Champagne has not lost its sparkle. Despite rumors of a “bubble burst” due to smaller shipments in 2023 and lower sales at the beginning of 2024, this appears more like a post-boom correction than a crisis. The growing interest sommeliers show in Champagne as a wine—enhancing unexpected pairings and bringing joy to any meal, not just special occasions—also attests to its enduring appeal.
In this context, the annual SommelierS International tasting is an ideal opportunity to gather with fellow sommeliers, producers, and cellar masters, reflecting on the rhythm of the seasons: the holiday festivities approaching for some, the harvest time for others.
This year, the prestigious event is sponsored by Fabrice Sommier, Meilleur Ouvrier de France and president of UDSF, and Francesco Cosci, ASI Best Sommelier of Italy, highlighting the trends shaping Champagne this year. Beyond the rumors, it’s a chance to uncover the very best.
Champagne may be a strictly regulated appellation, but it remains dynamic, at the forefront of innovation, with a bright future. This evolution fuels the industry’s drive, excites enthusiasts, and keeps professionals constantly seeking improvement.
The first observation: there’s no room for mediocrity. The price increases during Covid were driven not only by the crisis, shortages (in labor and supplies), or speculation, but also by innovation and a relentless commitment to improvement. As a result, even small producers are keeping up, spurred by the push toward premiumization across all levels.
Champagne producers are becoming more adventurous in their approaches to fermentation and aging. Gone is the single-minded focus on oak or the return to oxidative aging styles. Base wine fermentation and aging methods are diversifying. When it comes to barrels, the preference is for vessels that impart subtle influence, as seen in the wines of Gounel Lassalle or Lombard. Some producers embrace a more Burgundian approach, like the new releases from Sophie Cossy or Frerejean Frères, while others are enhancing complexity through varied reserve wines or incorporating RP (reserve particulière), such as Henriot’s renowned Cuve 38.
With more advanced agronomy, both houses and producers are building a stronger foundation, even in challenging vintages like 2017, 2021, or the more recent 2023-2024 seasons. They are also moving towards greener viticulture: High Environmental Value, Sustainable Viticulture in Champagne, organic, and biodynamic practices. Innovative reserve wines support these ventures, as seen at Henriot, and packaging follows the trend, becoming cleaner and greener.
Varietal diversity is expanding. We’re seeing more Pinot Meunier on labels, along with heritage varieties like the Fromenteau in Drappier’s “Trop m’en faut!” or Pinot Blanc at Colette Bonnet.
With recent vintages—2018, 2019, and 2020—the quest for aromatic freshness involves not only lowering dosage levels but also enhancing blends with wood-aged wines and different grape varieties. The older-style, heavily autolyzed wines are giving way to greater transparency, preserving vibrancy in the wines.
For prestige cuvees, we’re currently between the outstanding 2013 vintage—Comtes de Champagne, Amours de Deutz, Rare, Grande Année, and Lalou—and a shift to 2015. The 2015 vintage, a bold year where precise harvest timing was crucial, is evident in wines like La Grande Dame 2015. Some rare 2014 wines are also showing surprising character, such as Perrier Jouet Belle Époque or William Deutz. For producers, offering recent vintages as prestige wines is simpler; think of Alexandre Bonnet’s range. As for Non-Vintage or Brut Sans Année, these are generally based on wines from 2017/2018-2020.
One cannot discuss trends without mentioning partners like Coravin Sparkling, specially designed for Champagne, and Lehmann glassware, always innovating to enhance Champagne’s gustatory effervescence—delighting both food and wine pairings. This experience culminates in the traditional meal in the grand hall of Reims City Hall.
See you next year!
Bruno Scavo / Photos : Michel Jolyot
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