Winegrower Bordeaux
Château Haut-Bacalan,following in the footsteps of eminent men
In the heart of Pessac lies an isle of peace and luxuriant greenery, in stark contrast to the urban turmoil of this area on the outskirts of Bordeaux. Turning their sights away from the Gonet family stronghold in Champagne, lured by the charm of this magnificent Pessac-Léognan terroir, Corinne and Charles-Henri Gonet, along with their three children, decided in 1996 to settle at this relatively unspoiled estate that stands in close proximity to such legendary domains as Châteaux Haut Brion and Pape Clément.
By profession a doctor in the casualty department, Corinne is also an elected member of the Pessac town council, whilst her husband, working in collaboration with his brother Frédéric, runs two other estates in the Bordeaux winegrowing area. Haut-Bacalan once belonged to the Baron de Montesquieu and it was here that this eminent philosopher produced his wine. Together, Corinne and Charles-Henri have breathed new life into this estate. Since 2001, the year in which their first wine was produced, they have marked Haut-Bacalan with a contemporary style. Corinne and Charles-Henri manage to combine an extremely hectic professional and community life with the pleasure of finding time to devote to their vineyard… which does not prevent them being extremely active in ensuring the export of their wines, along with the French art of living! We meet the Gonets at Château Haut-Bacalan, where they have created a modern wine that draws all its strength from a prestigious terroir that still has a wealth of resources to reveal…
Following in Montesquieu’s footsteps
Seven hectares of vines planted with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are used for making the red wines (and soon white wines) of Haut-Bacalan. Charles-Henri sets the tone:
“Montesquieu had already planted vines here in 1726.” The acclaimed philosopher of Enlightenment was the first person to establish a domain here, before selling it to a certain Mr de Bacalan, a solicitor from Bordeaux, closely connected to the kings of Navarre, who gave his name to this estate. This historical legacy is as exceptional as the terroir itself, a result of the abundance of La Mission Haut-Brion’s gravel hillcrest. In 1996, this exceptional terroir decided Charles-Henri Gonet to invest in this vineyard, which he rapidly re-established, whilst renovating the château too. 2001 saw the first vintage and marked the continuation of major development projects.
To encourage the finest expression of this terroir, Charles-Henri concentrates his efforts upon vine work. In the vineyard, planted with the maximum of 10 000 vines per hectare, work is carried out manually and supervised control is used for vine treatments. Measures to obtain organic certification are planned soon. The vineyard lies in an advantageous position: the soils are relatively warm, giving early-ripening;
if there are winter frosts vines here do no suffer and their growth cycle is continuous during the summer months…even in this unusual year of thirteen moons, a phenomenon well-known and dreaded by winegrowers.
From a lineage of Champagne wine producers dating back to 1802, Charles-Henri Gonet represents the seventh generation, but, with his brother Frédéric, embodies the first generation to have settled in the Bordeaux area. Drawn to this region, he initially took over the management of Château Lesparre in Beychac et Cailleau in 1986 (Graves de Vayres AOC), an estate he still runs as owner-winegrower with his brother Frédéric, using the services of Mr Facorellis, oenologist and Mr Pernet, vineyard manager. The family also manages Château d’Eck in Cadaujac, an estate whose origins date back to the 11th century, and which formerly belonged to the bishops of Bordeaux between the 13th and 15th centuries. Historic significance, as well as the importance of one’s family, is never far from Charles-Henri’s mind when he embarks upon an undertaking…
Elegance and roundness
In the Pessac-Léognan appellation, weather conditions combine with the geological features of terraces created by the movements of the Garonne River several tens of thousands of years ago; the soils therefore enable the production of charming, delightful, aromatic, delicate wines. The wines of Château Haut-Bacalan are typified by the fruity, robust, round aromas Corinne and Charles-Henri love... Relatively complex fragrances, presenting a subtle mixture of black fruits, spices and vanilla, with fullness and good structure on the palate...
“Thanks to its continuous growth cycle, the vine takes time to create substance. The level of tannic strength is high and produces well-structured wine whose richness enables it to be enjoyed as an aperitif” Charles-Henri Gonet explains. The 2002 was awarded a silver medal at the 2004 World Contest in Brussels. The 2005s are already excellent. 2003s and 2004s are ready to serve now; they have sufficient roundness to accompany rib steak grilled on hot vine embers, a typical South-West dish; they also complement game dishes or even spicy cuisine. These varied gastronomic possibilities naturally lead to commercial opportunities. So, how are Château Haut-Bacalan’s rather young wines, characteristic of their terroir, distributed in the current economic situation?
Promotion and distribution are a question of team work. The annual production of 30 000 bottles is sold partly in France in cafés, hotels and restaurants, as well as to individual customers, for an average retail price of 15 Euros per bottle (ex-cellars). 70% of production is exported worldwide, with significant development for exports to Asia. The second wine is sold through Bordeaux wine merchants.
Back to the roots
Corinne Gonet is especially involved in promotion: member of the wine brotherhood named “La Commanderie du Bontemps Médoc, Graves, Sauternes & Barsac”, she attended the official ceremony for the creation of the 71st Commanderie des Vins de Bordeaux based in Rio, in June 2008. She is also a member of the Pessac-Léognan ‘Syndicat Viticole’ and belongs too to the “Femmes et Vin” association. Where does she find the time to cope with all these simultaneous occupations of family life, her profession as a hospital doctor, her involvements in promotion and wine trade issues? We did not find the answer, but it certainly lies in the passion that drives Corinne Gonet. One only has to listen to her speak: “I have gradually seen the estate take on the dimension of a business. By travelling, we meet customers and wine enthusiasts from countries all over the world; we establish sales representatives abroad for our exports and work on presenting the image of the people behind our wines... I prefer direct contacts and never forget that I have an agricultural background too.” Modesty and unpretentiousness are guarantees of success for this couple who are developing their estate with ideally contemporary versatility.
Christelle Faure-Némery
Appellation : AOC Pessac-Léognan
Superficie de production : 6,5 Ha
Encépagement : Merlot, Cabernet, Petit Verdot
Production annuelle :
30 000 bouteilles
Terroir : Graves et sable noir
Densité de plantation :
10,000 pieds / Ha
Rendement moyen : 35 Hl / Ha
Les vins :
Château Haut Bacalan,
Château d'Eck,
Château Saint Eugéne
Type d’élevage : Vendange manuelle, plusieurs tries, préfermentaire a froid, macération longue, fermentation malolactique et élevage sur lie fine en barrique neuve.
Âge moyen du vignoble : 8 ans
Âge des barriques : Neuves
Château Haut-Bacalan
Charles-Henri et Corinne Gonet
56, rue du Domaine de Bacalan
33600 Pessac
Tél. : 05 57 24 51 23
Fax : 05 57 24 03 99
E-mail
www.gonet.fr
