Just call me ‘9’… ‘009’

08/10

Primeurs 2009

Primeurs 2009 Bordelais

SommelierS International wished to underline, in this series of articles about 'Bordeaux', the particular climatic conditions of the vintage 2009, the atmosphere of the “Primeurs” and a report on the field. One cannot write the word “Primeurs” without evoking the expectation of the first selling prices.

Some strategies, or opportunities, of estates to face up the crisis in the tense world economic context, are revealed
to you. Investments for some châteaux, new concepts, new communication, consolidation of the achievements and of their image for the others, in order to be visible today and establish their position among the leaders at the end of the crisis. The context is all the more interesting, this year, since numerous actors of the wine field were present on the 6th edition of Vinexpo Asia, from 25 till 27 May of this year, with this magnificent vintage. In Hong Kong, Vinexpo closed its doors with a +40 % attendance compared with the last edition, in 2008. All the hopes of marketing in Asia are allowed.

Back from the exhibition, SommelierS International asked several Presidents their sentiment and the current affairs of their grouping: siren song or real opportunity?
Finally, to close this file, you will find a reflection on the “first selling prices” trend according to the multiple economic and monetary parameters of the moment.

A reference vintage…

Just call me ‘9’… ‘009’ April is a month during which the hive of economic activity butles about... This year, THE new vintage, in this instance the superb 2009 vintage, was tasted enthusiastically...

Close to 6000 professionals, through the various Bordeaux appellations, played with their papillae. Certainly the Bordeaux cicada has sung all the harvest long, but will the ant (the buyers) be there for the Primeurs? La Fontaine's maxim would have to be corrected if, compared with the tastings and comments, the buyers havenot come. But the rumor about 2009 spread, and the British, the American and the Asian tasters were present again. Having participated in 'harvest' days in diverse appellations of the Bordeaux vineyard, SommelierS International can guarantee that they were “ideal”. The climatic summer conditions were perfect in 2009. The sunny late summer, with important temperature contrasts between night and day, offered a slow and progressive maturation of the grape, while preserving the aromas.

The harvest, 'à la carte' and serene, gave the opportunity to obtain wines with complex and subtil fresh fruit flavours, with high alcoholic strength and a record index of tanin (IPT), with an important acidity permitting to reach balance: master word of the tasting of the great -or even exceptional- vintages. During the tastings, the 2009 whites having a good proportion of Sauvignon, offer aromas of white fruits, pineapple, citrus and freshness. Particularly descended from clay and limestone soils, they have a better ageing capacity. The red wines, of a deep colour, have a lot of fruits, flesh and roundness, with a pinch of flattery to the palate and a wonderful structure. A real sweetmeat, even if the maturing in barrels is not finished! As for the sweet wines, you may think we have been bribed! Not at all... we would like to have, at the editorial office, a few flasks of these vintages which will mark the memories... (a word to the wise...).
For fifty years, about 10 Bordeaux wines have been described as “vintage of the century”! But following 2000, 2003 and 2005, 2009 will go down in history, with yields at a normal level (5,7 millions of hectolitres). A few wines remind the vintages finishing in '9' like 1929/1949/1959… 1989… Beautiful achievements in the Médoc with the 'king' varietal Cabernet Sauvignon at maturity have to be mentioned: when the juices distinguish, they prove exceptional. Splendid wines in the Graves and Pessac-Léognan (in white and red), superb in Pomerol with flesh and already silky tanins. In Fronsac and Saint Emilion, with the damper of the hail episode on May 12/13th that drastically cut in the volume of some estates, we taste very great wines in general, with a special mention for those realized on the terrace of Figeac (Château Figeac, Cheval Blanc...). Finally, they will simply be exceptional in the sweet wines region, with concentration and a lot of freshness giving them length and pleasure more than power and sugar content! The liqueur of a 2003 with the refinement of the 2005 and the brightness of the 2001.
Florence Varaine
NB : Close to 550 wines tasted at the “Union des Grands Crus” and in several organizations as the “Cercle Rive Droite”, as well as during various tastings through the vineyard. And this during 3 weeks.
The Winner Is… 2009

Two words to sum up the Primeurs wines... Record and smile

Record participation of tasters and record quality for this 2009 vintage. Smile on the owners' face for the hope this vintage arouses within the world crisis... Enthusiasm for the coming months and the expectations of purchases by all the nationalities that rushed about during the Primeur Week at the end of March. A kind of euphoria could be felt from March 26th when a record rate of subscriptions registered by the Union of the Grands Crus de Bordeaux… nearly 6000 badges... ie 50% more compared to the 2008 vintage! Interest was there, the quality of the vintage doing the rest. Numerous tastings have been organized in seven châteaux members of the UGC*, welcoming merchants, wine brokers, professionals, sommeliers and buyers from all around the world. About 20 châteaux received more particularly 200 international journalists. The noteworthy return of the British and the major interest of the Asian countries and the United States was noticed... Due to globalization and 2009... “China is an opportunity for the Union, without abandoning the traditional markets. One must not put all one's eggs in one basket and we are utterly convinced that we must continue our trips to all the continents to preserve our already loyal markets without overshadowing the emerging markets.” Sylvie Cazes, Chairwoman of the UGC, confessed. The day before the Primeurs, the Union organized a prestige dinner for the international press at the Château La Dominique – Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé - property of the Clément Fayat group.

Sylvie Cazes, Présidente de l’UGC.

Château La Dominique et la cow parade.

Despite the enthusiasm of the Primeur Week and the BUZZ in the vineyard, everybody is waiting, after consultation, for the announcement of the first sales prices of the Primeur wines. “Compared to the world context, the trade and the wine brokers will have to carefully analyze the demands of the châteaux following defined criteria like: their image and reputation, the prices history, the distribution and the stock level. These different parameters will then be able to determine the price trend of each château towards the world market.” S. Cazes explained. The British were back, the American also. The Chinese plan their run-up and the traditional markets do not lie low... Only one damper, the risk of a price escalation of this vintage for a minority of upmarket châteaux who, de facto, increase the credibility of the vintage in a luxury world. The other Bordeaux wines might burn their wings like Icarus, tempting to reach high level marketing spheres that are not theirs. In the United States, the 2009 may be considered as speculative. In China, the attraction of luxury fascinates a market in full increase that has nothing to do with an economical crisis. “We have to work with the whole field on todays projects, tomorrow's achievements and have the same discourse turning to export. The fundamental work of the UGC, the mobilization of all its members and a vintage like 2009 pay off. In this spirit, and thanks to the dynamism created by the 2009 vintage, we are present at Vinexpo Hong Kong: Asia has a great potential with the governments' policy being in line with us.” the Chairwoman concluded. The closing lunch at the Château Latour Martillac was marked by a serene spirit of good omen for the next trips of the Union through the world, under the banner of a 2009 under the best auspices.

Florence Varaine
*UGC: Union of the Grands Crus classés,
created in 1973, with 132 châteaux members.
PRIMEURS L U X E