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Southern Burgundy, a land of hedonism

27/09/2024

In 2015, the Climats of the Burgundy vineyards were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. This recognition underscores the global significance of the Burgundy vineyard, with its 84 appellations, including 33 Grand Crus, cementing France's reputation on the international stage.
 

Mâcon: between vineyards and Plume

To showcase its terroir, particularly the craftsmanship of its winemakers and the richness of its wines, Burgundy inaugurated the “Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne” on June 17, 2023. Spread across three distinct sites—Chablis, Beaune, and Mâcon—this ambitious project dedicates 80% of its content to a shared narrative, while the scenography at each site highlights the specific vineyards they represent.

In Mâcon, visitors are welcomed into a 370-square-meter exhibition space, serving as a gateway to the southern Burgundy vineyards. This immersive experience delves into the history, geography, and unique Climats of the Mâconnais, Côte Chalonnaise, and Côtes du Couchois regions. Through interactive multimedia displays and a connected bracelet, visitors can explore winemakers' testimonies, learn about the Climats of Burgundy, the vine's lifecycle, and festive traditions.

Cité des Climats et vins de Bourgogne.

A highlight of the visit is the “Cave of Aromas”, where the olfactory experience is enhanced by a range of natural and fresh products. Since wine is ultimately about taste, the tour concludes with a wine tasting session.

Beyond the tour, the venue offers private event spaces, a wine bar, and a variety of workshops and courses, thanks to the presence of the Burgundy Wine School, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. In its first year, the “Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne” attracted 55,000 visitors across its network and was named the "Best Wine Museum in Europe" by the Iter Vitis – Wine and Vine Routes network, just four months after opening.

For those seeking a deeper immersion in the Mâconnais vineyards, explore them in an English cab guided by Fabrice Sommier, Best Sommelier of France, president of the Union de la Sommellerie Française, and founder, with his wife Charlotte, of the Wine School by Fabrice Sommier, an institute dedicated to wine tasting and discovery. A passionate advocate for winemakers, Fabrice takes visitors to the Château de la Greffière, where the Vineyard and Wine Museum showcases the evolution of viticulture from past to present. No visit is complete without tasting the wines of the Greuzard family. The standout is the Château de La Greffière Mâcon La Roche Vineuse Chardonnay Coup de Foudre 2020, a generous wine with vibrant fruit and freshness, created in collaboration with Fabrice Sommier and aged in oak casks. This wine's 3,300 magnums are sold to support the Vaincre la mucoviscidose Foundation.

After a stop at Cindy and Jérémy Vervier's estate to savor their exquisite whites, the journey culminates with a rustic picnic at the foot of the iconic Roche de Solutré, organized by Charlotte Sommier, providing a moment of escape and communion with the Mâconnais vineyard.

Mâcon is celebrated not only for its vineyards but also as the birthplace of the renowned 19th-century poet, novelist, playwright, and politician, Alphonse de Lamartine, who famously proclaimed, "I am not a poet; I am a winemaker." Visitors can follow in the footsteps of Lamartine along the "Tracé de la Plume," immersing themselves in his literary and cultural legacy.
 

After World War I, the town's esplanade was named in honor of its most famous son, featuring a statue at its center. The gardens create a dreamlike journey inspired by the poet's verses. The Ursulines Museum, housed since 1968 in a former 17th-century convent, boasts the "Musée de France" label and a collection of over 25,000 works spanning from Antiquity to the 20th century, with a significant focus on Lamartine's legacy.
 

To cap off a day of exploration, the Hotel & Spa Panorama 360****, a stunning early 20th-century building made of Flacé and Saint-Martin stone, and formerly the Mâcon Post Office, now stands as a luxurious four-star hotel with contemporary decor. From its rooftop, guests can enjoy breathtaking views of the city, making it a perfect end to a day in Mâcon.
 

 

Hameau Dubœuf.

Discovering Beaujolais

At the Hameau Duboeuf, Europe's first wine-themed park located in Romanèche-Thorins, visitors are immersed in a unique and enchanting experience. From the moment we step into the recreated 1900s railway station hall, the wonder begins. Spanning 30,000 square meters and featuring 40 thematic areas, the Hameau Duboeuf offers an educational and immersive journey into the heritage of vineyards and wine.

As we wander through this extensive park, we encounter over 3,000 collectible artifacts related to the region's viticultural culture. Our exploration takes us through interactive displays, including a simulated flight over the Beaujolais and Mâconnais landscapes in a basket, mimicking the perspective of a bee, and a small train ride leading to a winemaking center. We also enjoy an olfactory promenade and a rosalie ride through aromatic gardens.

To fully immerse ourselves in the experience, we lunched at the Café des Deux Horloges, where the 1900s ambiance and the charming tunes of a barrel organ create a convivial atmosphere. Next, we head to the nearby train station, which has been completely redesigned for L’Impérial show. Here, we embark on a mesmerizing journey through a Napoleon III-era wagon, where animated sculptures of bacchantes delight both children and adults. This venue truly showcases the diversity and expertise of Beaujolais, recognized as a UNESCO Global Geopark since 2018, spanning 641 hectares.

 

Festival de jazz au Château du Moulin-à-Vent.

The enchantment continues with the 9th edition of the Jazz in Moulin-à-Vent Festival at the Château du Moulin-à-Vent. Here, we meet 14 winemakers from the Cap Moulin-à-Vent Association, including Château Bonnet, Château des Gimarets, Château des Jacques, Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de Colette, Domaine de Rochegrès (Maison Albert Bichot), Elisa Guerin,
Domaine Richard Rottiers, Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils, Domaine Paul Janin & Fils, Domaine du Granit, Maison le Nid, Thibault Liger-Belair, and Domaine Merlin. These estates gathered to celebrate the centenary of the Moulin-à-Vent appellation. This convivial event blends jazzy melodies with high-quality wines, creating a perfect symphony of senses.
 

Ma Chambre à Saint-Amour. / © James Tennessee Briandt

To unwind after a day filled with emotions, we head to Ma Chambre à Saint-Amour. This charming guesthouse, situated on a small hill surrounded by vineyards in the heart of Saint-Amour-Bellevue, has been owned by the Béranger family since the 18th century and is now managed by Laurence Chomienne. With warmth and hospitality, Laurence welcomes us amidst the delightful aromas of homemade jam being prepared for breakfast. She guides us through her beautiful property, featuring a pool and panoramic views of the Beaujolais vineyards and Mont-Blanc. Here, we are ready to drift into sweet dreams, reminiscing about the diverse beauty of Southern Burgundy.

Sandy Bénard-Ravoisier

SommelierS International extends heartfelt thanks to the aiRPur agency, the Saône-et-Loire Department Tourism Mission, the Destination Beaujolais Tourist Office, and the Mâcon Tourist Office for these wonderful discoveries.