France Côtes du Rhône
Roaming souls :
Unforgettable discovery of Crozes-Hermitage
The Appellation Crozes-Hermitage is the largest of the Crus of the Northern Côtes du Rhône. It is on the left bank of the river that the terroirs express. In the North, the vine takes root on the granite hillsides following the famous hill of l'Hermitage. In the South, the history of the Rhone can be read in the soil with its fluvioglacial alluviae, the rolled stones of the Rhone. The climate is temperate for the vines' delight. The wine grower skillfully plays with the plots. Fresher in the North, between altitude and hillsides, they know to keep the necessary dampness. Under the Mistral wind, on more permeable soils in the South and the West, they stretch over the plateaux and terraces.
The Varietals in harmony
Here the Shiraz is king. This noble local grape variety is the only to be allowed in the making of red wines. Known and worked since the Romans, the Shiraz marvellously expresses itself in mild and not very contrasted climatic conditions of the terroir of Crozes-Hermitage.
The Marsanne and the Roussanne come to complement for the white wines. The Marsanne is now mainly planted. Its generosity, combined with the fineness of the Roussanne, gives the great white wines which represent only 8% of the appellation.
A rare elegance!
Among the prestigious crus of the Northern Rhone valley, the appellation Crozes-Hermitage seduces by its elegance.
Well-balanced wines, the red Crozes-Hermitage have, when young, the charming crispiness of the Shiraz. Elegance of the tannins, small red fruits, the deep and brilliant colour, invite you for pleasure.
They can be kept several years in the cellar, where the wine, quietly, will get the tender aromas of leather and spices.
Freshness and floral aromas are sought when making the white wines. The palate is round with a lovely body and finishes on a hint of freshness. Through the time, the evolution highlights the aromas of dried fruits.
An experience in the field
It happens that as managing editor of a prestigious magazine like SommelierS
International, I receive proposals for more or less exotic press visits. That is how in last July, I enthusiastically accepted the invitation of the appellation Crozes-Hermitage to discover its vineyard: two days of pure delight encountering wines that, after all, I did not know that well, and wine growers, enthusiastic and proud of their terroir.
Wines in the holds
The adventure starts in the heart of Lyon. Former fluvial tanker, La Plateforme spends happy and festive days alongside the new banks of the Rhone, transformed into a remarkable multi-space place for event organization. In its wine bar Wine & Transat with an exclusive wine list, the appellation Crozes-Hermitage invites since three years the inhabitants of Lyon to participate in tasting courses and enjoy the deckchairs for summer evenings of idleness.
It is in the holds that the invited press could taste some twenty samples classed by terroir, and attend an exciting presentation of the new cartography of the appellation by Isabelle Letessier, pedologist and agronomist, and Josselin Marion, geologist cartographer, of the survey agency Sigalès.
After this working afternoon, the aperitif on the deck was a magic moment. The setting sun reflected on the river, the banks were quiet, Tabata Bonardi's appetizers melted in the mouth into a festival of flavours, accompanied with some beautiful bottles and the wine growers as crew. The dinner that followed was in unison...
“Isn't life great?”
Maison des Vins Appellation Crozes-Hermitage
16, Av. du Maréchal Foch - 07300 Tournon - Tel. +33 (0)4 75 07 91 50
www.vins-rhone.com
www.vins-rhone-tourisme.com
Cave de Tain l’Hermitage
www.cavedetain.com
Domaine Fayolle Fils et Fille
www.cave-fayolle.com
Cave Olivier Dumaine
Domaine de la Croix du Verre
www.la-croix-du-verre.com
Cave Desmeure
www.domaineremizieres.com
Domaine Combier
www.domaine-combier.com
On the road in the vines … by bike
The next morning, after a quiet night in Tain l’Hermitage, the program looked athletic: visit of the undulating vineyards by bike (ouch!) … electric bike (phew!). Heat was mild and the landscape was magnificent.
Nestled in the heart of the hilly Drôme, on both sides of the 45th parallel, the vines jealously share their terroir with the apricot and peach trees. Red or more scarcely white, the Crozes-Hermitage wines borrow, with a greedy distinction, the crispiness of these fruits.
This magnificent wandering across the vineyards centered around 4 stops typical of a specific terroir of the appellation. At each stage, the corresponding wines were tasted in situ with the wine makers who knew to share generously their passion and their know-how.
In addition to their best bottles, to sustain at the same time the tasting and the
cyclists' energy, they had the thoughtfulness to bring some local produce: cheese, cold meat, absolutely heavenly just-picked peaches and apricots.
The first break was in the experimental plot of Gervans, with Xavier Gomart (manager of the Cave de Tain), Daniel Brissot (technical manager of the Cave de Tain) and Laurent Fayolle, from Domaine Fayolle Fils & Fille. Then the gathering departed for the hamlet La Croix du Verre, in the village of Larnage, to meet Olivier Dumaine and Philippe Desmeure, owners of the eponymous domains. The third stop was at La Ruine de Thalabert, with Laurent Combier and Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet.
To close this rich and enthusiastic morning, Denis Basset from Domaine Saint Clair, David Reynaud from Domaine les Bruyères, Yann Chave from Domaine Yann Chave, Jean Michel Borja and Anthony Raisin from La Cave de Clairmont, and Jacques Desvernois from Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné, prepared a vintners' lunch in the welcome freshness of the vat room of Domaine Saint Clair.
We kindly thank all those who strived to give us as much pleasure, simply offering us to share their day-to-day experience, their region, their landscapes and the wonderful fruit of their work!
On the paths across the vineyards, full of history, on the rolled pebbles of the Rhone River that borders them, on the hillsides where the wine grower's talent expresses... the appellation invites you to open the doors of its cellars … Let yourself seduce!
Dominique Peyral-Bon
Photos Sylvia Van Der Velden
The AOC in some figures
53 wine growers, 2 cooperatives, 15 merchants.
Production surface area: 1,430 ha.
Yearly production: 60,000 hl of which 56,500 in red.
Maximum allowed yield: 45hl/ha. The Crozes-Hermitage represents 50% of the volume of the Northern Côtes du Rhône.Domaine Philippe et Vincent JABOULET
www.jaboulet-philippe-vincent.fr
Domaine Saint Clair
domainesaintclair@wanadoo.fr
Domaine Les Bruyères
www.domainelesbruyeres.fr
Domaine Yann Chave
www.yannchave.com
Cave de Clairmont
www.cavedesclairmonts.com
Paul Jaboulet Aîné
www.jaboulet.com
La Plateforme
www.la-plateforme.fr
