Winegrower Bordeaux
Château Smith Haut Lafitte: balance in everything…
Florence and Daniel Cathiard have managed this prestigious domain in Pessac-Léognan for the past eighteen years, devoting their energies to making their fine wines with an accomplishment that is well-known. Their exceptional production contributes to maintaining the high standards of this appellation, as a tribute to the rich historical past of this estate that dates back to Verrier du Bosq in 1365. To truly sense the solemn legacy of this estate, one only has to enter the magnificent underground wine storehouse or the 18th century charterhouse, built in by Scottish wine merchant George Smith, where Florence and Daniel Cathiard live …
SI: You and your husband bought this estate in 1990. Tell us about the “Rolls Royce” of terroirs, as soils containing Gunzian gravel of the Quaternary era are known…
Florence Cathiard : “Improvements to the estate required considerable investments, but the vineyard had extremely well-positioned hillsides (11 hectares of white wine vines located on slopes, 45 hectares for red wine vines) and a vast terroir. From the outset, our efforts were concentrated on making our mark on this exceptional terroir and strengthening the natural defences of the soil. We opted for a return to traditional growing methods and gave precedence to ecological techniques: since 1992, weed killers are no longer used; typhlodromes were reintroduced to combat red spiders and synthetic pheromones were sprayed to tackle Eudemis in 1996 and since 1997, we produce our own compost … Since 2005, we have carried out field selection (‘sélection massale’) from Sauvignon Blanc vines and in 2006 we began using a new organic anti-botrytis called ‘bacillus subtilis’. All these procedures provide an improved balance for our vines and ensure they are hardier.”
SI: Has your considerable media influence helped your wines to be ranked amongst the elite?
F. C. : “For us the battle is won primarily in the vineyard. As you have observed here, we apply Steiner techniques. Biodynamic growing methods are very demanding and require a great deal of presence in the vineyard, as well as keen perception in observations. We like sharing our passion for the vine and wine with an ever-increasing number of wine enthusiasts. So at the 56th event of the “Fête de la Fleur” on June 21st 2007, as Vinexpo drew to a close, our estate welcomed 1 600 guests. This gala evening reception was coupled with an anniversary celebration for the Pessac-Léognan appellation (founded in 1987, it groups together 69 estates, including 16 Graves Growths). Our guest of honour for this occasion was Patrick Poivre d’Arvor.”
F. C.: SI: In the Western world, tell us about prospects for wine consumption, in particular for Great Growths?
« Château Smith Haut Lafitte » naturally enjoys good standing in Michelin-starred gastronomic restaurants. Our second wine, Les Hauts de Smith, is also present in luxury establishments, especially in gastronomic restaurants and “trendy” places. Top-quality gastronomy presents fantastic opportunities for fine wines. People such as Enrico Bernardo, the ‘World’s Best Sommelier’ in 2004, Alain Ducasse and his sommelier, Thomas Combescot at the ‘Saint Régis’ in New York have given wine place of honour in their establishments. In London, the ‘Wonder Bar’ at Selfridges on Oxford Street, has installed ‘Enomatic’ machines. This promising self-service system enables customers to order very fine wines by the glass. My daughter Alice and her husband, Jérôme Tourbier, will soon use this same system in the lounge bar of their establishment, which is soon to open in the town of Avray, near Château de Versailles. Such innovations help to sustain the consumption of fine wines.”
What are your feelings about the impact of legislation concerning alcohol consumption in France?What are your areas of development for 2008?
In January 1994, we purchased Château Cantelys, a Cru Bourgeois that first made its appearance on the international scene in 1995. 2008 will be the year of Château Cantelys, a Pessac-Léognan estate that produces lovely wines at reasonable prices (approximately 10 Euros per bottle). In general, we intend to devote ourselves further to organic vine growing methods. Our white wines have tremendous character: aromatic, powerful and lively, they hold their own with spices and match well with curry, sushis and even (perhaps) wasabi! This provides interesting opportunities in Asia. I have just come back from Bombay and New-Delhi. We are also orienting our sales towards Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, China, Jakarta, etc… The Asian market is highly appreciative of the benefits of wine for health (the famous ‘French paradox’) and the harmony of matching food and wine. Our activities will be concentrated at all levels in many areas … from Martillac to the rest of the world!”
AOC: Great Classified Growth of Graves Pessac-Léognan
Production: 10 000 cases (red) - 3 000 cases (white)Age of the barrels:
- For reds: 80% new barrels (variable from one vintage to another)
- For whites: 50% new barrels
The wines (red and white):
• Smith Haut Lafitte• Château Cantelys
« Art et vigne »
written by Florence Cathiard,
published in 2002 by Martinière-Aubanel,
147 p.Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Grand cru classé de Graves
33650 Martillac
Tél. 05 57 83 11 22
Fax. 05 57 83 11 21
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