Andreas Larsson’s Seminar in Japan

Séminar Japan
Andreas Larsson’s Seminar in Japan
At the “World’s Best Sommelier” competition held in Rhodes, Greece in 2007, Andreas Larsson and Yoichi Sato (“Japan’s Best Sommelier” 2005) competed against one another. They met again in June 2008 in Tokyo, to organise a seminar to compare the Syrah grape variety: Australian Shiraz from the Barossa Valley and French Syrah from northern area of the Rhone Valley.

6th June 2008, at the Shinagawa Prince Hotel (Tokyo, Minato-ku), organised by Peter Lehmann Wines Limited

To begin this seminar, Mr Kazuyoshi Kogai, President of the ASI, thanked members of the audience for attending and commended the exceptional opportunity of Andreas Larsson’s presence in Japan.

Andreas Larsson explained the specific features of the Syrah variety and its origins. Syrah was created by a hybridisation of two grape varieties from southern France (Mondeuse Blanche and Dureza) whose combination gives one of the most extraordinary varieties. Syrah, which has a great deal of structure, in the past required at least 5 to 10 years of ageing in barrels before being ready to drink. Modern winemaking and vine growing techniques now enable this variety to produce wines that can be enjoyed far earlier. Robert Parker initiated this revolution in the 1980s, as he did for Bordeaux.
Syrah makes dark coloured wines that have spicy fruitiness. In the Rhone Valley, it gives aromas of blackcurrant and black pepper, and has a high proportion of acidity, so it requires a certain period of ageing before reaching an ideal balance. However, in Barossa, its colour is also very dark, but its aromas tend to express plum and more peppery hints, developing towards clove and ginger. Its flavour is sweeter and more accessible. The structure Syrah possesses in Barossa is suppler, so these wines can be enjoyed earlier.
In the Rhone Valley, vines are grown on steep, pebbly slopes, avoiding an excessive quantity of water accumulating in the soil. The Barossa Valley’s climate is more Mediterranean. Summers must be hot in the Rhone Valley to enable Syrah to ripen fully. By green harvesting, winegrowers in the Rhone Valley restrict their yields; this technique is only used to a very small extent in the Barossa Valley.

Comparative tasting:

1. Barossa Shiraz 2005 - Peter Lehmann
Aromas: express the Barossa terroir. Palate: marvellous structure with distinct, pleasant tannins, flavours of liquorice and good persistency.
2. Coteaux du Tricastin ‘Chateau des Estubiers’ 2005 - Mr Chapoutier
Classic, spicy French hints, and a slight hint of garlic. It has wonderful length, lovely maturity and hints of violet. Both wines are still young, but their fresh fruitiness makes them easy to enjoy now. It is important to observe the brightness in colour of both these wines.
3. Eight Songs Shiraz 2003 - Peter Lehmann
A splendid dry year that gave low-volume harvests of extremely concentrated grapes.
It shows a very dark colour.
Flavours of black cherry, plum, chocolate and a touch of vanilla, that comes from barrel maturation; it is extremely complex. Excellent structure,
it is a very well-balanced wine.
4. Côte Rôtie “Brune et Blonde de Guigal” 2003 - E. Guigal
A marvellous warm year. Peppery, smoky hints, but with consistent feminine elegance.
Lehman and Guigal both use new barrels, but Guigal has been the pioneer of much longer maturation, so these wines express lovely fruitiness that is not overpowered by empyreumatic aromas.
5. Stonewell Shiraz 2002 - Peter Lehmann
Old vines of more than 80 years of age, grown on perhaps one of the finest terroirs of Barossa Valley…
2002 was a rather cool year, with low night-time temperatures, which led to later harvests. The berries were small and possessed excellent concentration.
It exudes aromas of bilberry and blackcurrant…childhood memories of forest fruits.
It is fresh on the palate, and gives various types of fruitiness, very ripe tannins and tremendous complexity.
This wine gives the impression of having been matured in new barrels.
It will be exceptional with Kobe beef.

Comments of Yoichi Sato:

“Two years ago, I spent a week in Bordeaux with Andreas Larsson. He has changed a great deal in his style of tasting comments and his analysis of wine, as well as in the way he expresses his observations. He was extremely relaxed when giving his presentation to the 200 members of the Japanese Sommelier Association (JSA) who came to attend his seminar. Becoming the “World’s Best Sommelier” has given him far greater self-esteem. This seminar offered participants the opportunity to taste wines of excellent quality, guided by equally outstanding tasting comments. I was delighted by Andreas Larsson’s presentation and the enthusiastic feedback received from members of the JSA.”