Gastronomy Alsace
L'Auberge de L’ILL :
the art of excellence
In the Haeberlin family, cuisine is a vocation, an art raised to its peak of perfection by dint of diligence and creativity. Today, seven members of one family assisted by a number of relations, combine their skills to offer their customers exceptional hotel and gastronomic service. From the reception of restaurant guests to the management of the Hôtel des Berges, each member of the family bestows his own share of conviviality, following in the footsteps of the patriarch and culinary genius, Paul Haeberlin, who passed away recently.
© Pascal MorgenrothThe ’Auberge de l’Ill’ has successfully come through all gastronomic revolutions
It all began 150 years ago, at ‘L’arbre vert’, a simple country inn located in Illhaeusern, 15 kilometres from Colmar, where the Haeberlin family first launched itself in this profession. It was a wonderful childhood setting for the two brothers, Jean-Pierre and Paul, but for a period of time the Second World War and the turbulent history of this region separated them. After the war, the two siblings met again and decided to combine their efforts to rebuild this temple dedicated to gastronomy. In 1952, they were awarded their first star in the Michelin Guide, received a second in 1957 and finally a third in 1967.
Marc Haeberlin works with the very finest professionals: in the kitchen, Dirck Gieselmann; the team of sommeliers includes Serge Dubs (‘World’s Best Sommelier’ 1989, he has worked at this restaurant since 1972), as well as Pascal Léonetti, ‘France’s Best Sommelier’ 2006 and Hervé Fleuriel; the first Maître d’hôtel is Michel Scheer (MOF).
To maintain this level of excellence and attract such invaluable staff, this hotel-restaurant leaves nothing to chance. Extremely high, impeccable standards are required in every aspect from the 49 members of staff (25 in the kitchen), who devote the same careful attention to each part of customer service. Talent, meticulousness, hard work, but also modesty, perseverance and a sense of tradition: these are the key words of the Haeberlin family, which works tirelessly to ensure that this restaurant remains a regional reference, taking full advantage of its three Michelin stars and largely contributing to the far-reaching influence of Alsace gastronomy.
When there is a fusion between cuisine and art
Entering the ‘Auberge de l’Ill’ brings an instant sensation of well-being; rare are those who do not return to this hotel-restaurant, a place dedicated to honouring a gentle way of life. Warm colours, a welcoming atmosphere… Patrick Jouin, interior designer of the Plaza Athénée, has freely made his mark upon the décor here, highlighting the Murano glass railing in the dining room of 90 covers to create a play on light, whilst in the boudoir, shades of red-ochre and family photos hang alongside a work by Bernard Buffet, offering the visitor a cosy ambience. This decoration completed in March 2007 to mark forty years of Michelin stars, brings modernity and contrast whilst preserving the true essence of this establishment.
A wine list with 1 000 references
Serge Dubs, sommelier at the ’Auberge de l’Ill’ for the past 36 years, remembers Paul Haeberlin’s way of thinking: “His cuisine was absolutely delicate, elegant, smooth and incredibly innovative and rich for that time and with which wines found magnificent harmony for revealing their structure and refinement.” Marc Haeberlin now works more with spices and new types of cooking; these dishes combine with very different wines, from dry to sweet, discreet to exuberant… The osmosis between food and wine is natural in this family business where respect for natural produce is king. “We sell pleasure” sums up Serge Dubs, who coordinates a stock of 60 000 bottles and has 1 000 references on his wine list. “But this pleasure must be accessible to all: the first wine is priced at 22 Euros, the most expensive at 8 000 Euros.” Tremendous wines for exquisite gastronomy, they are the inspiration of leading experts; they are untouched by new influences and passing trends, they retain the essential, loyal to their own values.
Pascal Léonetti et Serge Dubs. Marc Haeberlin et sa brigade. (© Eric Laignel)
Destination Japan
It is moving to think in the 1960s legendary cuisine was first created here; dishes such as ‘truffe sous la cendre’ (a truffle wrapped in a slice of bacon and placed in a papillote is cooked slowly under hot ash), goose liver brioche, Vladimir lobster with champagne sauce, hare à la royale with Spaetzle (a special type of pasta in Alsace) or frog mousse…and so many other recipes that have also become famous. These days, gastronomes from all corners of the world flock to the ’Auberge de l’Ill to taste these mythical dishes. “I draw my inspiration from traditional cuisine and travel” Marc Haeberlin tells us and one can sense this discreet influence in each careful detail of this restaurant. “Without copying Asian cuisine, I always propose a dish inspired by a foreign place; but my inspiration can also come from a book I’ve read.” Art always intervenes at all levels.
A new opportunity has encouraged the ’Auberge de L’Ill’ to turn its efforts towards Japan. The management team has taken part in opening two new restaurants, following an offer from the well-known Hiroyuki Hiramatsu. The ’Auberge de l’Ill’ in Nagoya, designed by Yasumichi Morita in an extremely modern style, opened last year on the 42nd floor of the Land Mark Midland Square Building. Opened in May 2008, the ’Auberge de l’Ill’ in Tokyo shows a more traditional style. These two magnificent projects became a reality thanks to the collaboration of the two Michelin-starred chefs with Paul Bocuse.
Ensure the far-reaching influence of luxury French gastronomy worldwide
Marc Haeberlin became President of the association ‘Grandes Tables du Monde’ in 2001. This elite group of the restaurant world, which now counts more than 140 members in 20 countries worldwide, has for the first time this year created a partnership with the UDSF. With one annual general meeting (the next one is planned in Rome on 12th and 13th September), the association recruits new members and presents awards each year to a personality of the gastronomy sector. As part of these awards, at the end of 2007 in Cannes, Carlo Petrini, founder of the ‘Slow Food’ movement, received a Lalique trophy for his activities devoted to defending the true principles of cuisine worldwide.
Modestly aware of his role as standard-bearer of exquisite gastronomy, which he now intends to fervently uphold more than ever in a context of worldwide diversification of culinary trends, Marc Haeberlin nevertheless manages to keep a cool head. His aim is to ensure the continuation of his family’s achievements, strengthen its strong position, constantly embellish the hotel-restaurant, diversify his French cuisine whilst constantly retaining priority for local produce (such as game from the meadowlands of Alsace or Rhine fish)… A love of this region remains the finest inspiration for this top chef and the ‘Auberge de l’Ill’, one of the most highly reputed hotel-restaurants in Europe…
C.F.N.
© Hueberphoto.com
FROG MOUSSE BY PAUL HAEBERLIN
Ingredients for 6 people:
• 2 kg of frogs’ legs
• 200 g of pike
• 2 egg whites
• ½ a litre of cream
• 150 g of butter
• ½ a bottle of Riesling
• 500 g of spinach
• 4 shallots, 1 clove of garlic, chives
• 1 spoon of roux
• salt and pepper
• ½ a lemon
First, sweat the butter and the chopped shallots in a frying pan, then add 1 kilo of frogs’ legs and pour over the half bottle of Riesling. Add some salt and pepper and let the mixture simmer for three minutes, without covering the frying pan with a lid.
Then, put the frogs’ legs to one side, but keep the cooking juices and reduce them by half.
For the mousse: Finely mince the pike flesh along with the other kilo of raw frogs’ legs, which you will have previously boned. Add some salt and pepper. Blend in the two egg whites and gradually the same volume of cream. As soon as the mousse has a consistent texture, take it out of the mixer and put it into the fridge to cool. Bone the cooked frogs’ legs and then put them to one side.
Butter 8 ramekins. Put the mousse into a piping bag with a round nozzle and cover the base and sides of these moulds. Fill the centre of the moulds with some cooked frogs’ legs and then cover completely with a layer of mousse.
Place the ramekins in a bain-marie and cook them in the oven for 15 minutes at a temperature of 180°C.
For the sauce: Thicken the reduced cooking juices by adding a spoonful of roux and gently bring to the boil. Add a bowl of cream and beat in the remaining butter. Add the juice of half a lemon; add salt and pepper, to correct the seasoning. Turn each mousse out its ramekin onto a plate garnished with steamed spinach leaves, which have been reheated in butter.
Pour some sauce over each mousse and sprinkle over some finely chopped chives.
Auberge de l’Ill
2 rue de Collonges au Mont d’Or
68970 Illhaeusern
T. + 33 (0) 3 89 71 89 00
F. + 33 (0) 3 89 71 82 83
www.auberge-de-l-ill.comE-mailThe Haeberlin menu
Cocktail of Crab meat, Guacamole, light sea-urchin mousse and Crab jelly
Fillet of fried Pikeperch, red rice risotto with frogs, fresh herb juices with sorrel
Warm Goose liver marinated in Sukiyaki, spicy chicken stock flavoured with Shizo leaves
Rack of Lamb, pressed conserved aubergines, small artichokes, Lamb juices with Rocket
Selection of cheeses
Small pre-dessert
Dessert of the moment with Morello Cherries
