Portrait of winegrower
Charente-Maritime
“The best Cognac you've ever heard of… is AUDRY” concluded Alice Feiring in her article on Cognac in Time Magazine in December 2005. Five years later, thanks to Bernard Boisson's commitment to the House, founded in 1878 by Edmond Audry, his great-great-grandfather, Audry came out of anonymity.
The year 2009, in particular, was marked by high praise from
Hachette and Gault Millau guides, Andreas Larsson, Isa Bal and Sommeliers International as well as from many restaurant critics.
The renaissance
Long has been the way, especially given that half a century ago, Audry had fallen into oblivion, as it remained dormant for forty years. The family had, however, carefully kept a few barrels of very old Cognacs.
Bernard Boisson vowed to revive the name of Audry. This day came in 1984. He set about visiting the great Chefs and the Sommeliers so that they could taste the family treasures. And Audry reappeared in many renowned establishments including, for example,
Alain Ducasse, Joël Robuchon and Guy Savoy.
Bernard Boisson continued for a long time with this task, despite he had little free time due to his union work. He was responsible for social affairs within the MEDEF (Movement of French Enterprises), which led him to chair UNEDIC (National Union for Employment in Industry and Commerce) and to sit on the French Economic and Social Council as well as on the International Labor Organization.
He had to wait until 2005 to take a
‘hyperactive’ retirement, entirely dedicated to his Cognac.
A prestige
export
For a long time Audry’s success remained a secret known only by certain great restaurants and prestigious wine cellars. Similarly, in the beginning, exports were mostly restricted to New York and Switzerland.
However, in the last five years, thanks to the increased number of presentations and tastings, and with the support of efficient importers, seduced by the richness and variety of the Audry range, there has been a remarkable increase in the United Kingdom market as well as an important extension of the clientele in the United States, particularly in California.
Balance and
the work of time
A great Cognac is the result of a balance that is affirmed and developed with the passing of time.
- First, balance between the aromas found in the grapes. The wine produced by Ugni Blanc grapes from Charentais soil gives a nice harmony between fruit and acidity. The Charentais distillation method (double successive heating) allows the extraction of the delicate scents whilst rejecting anything that might spoil the Cognac’s quality and fineness. It optimizes the passage of the aromatic elements in the distillate.
- Then, balance between the bouquet coming from the wine and the contribution of oak wood during ageing.
To emphasize the aromatic richness of the brandy, the tannin should penetrate the Cognac slowly and gradually. Too much, too soon would impair the bouquet and upset the balance. The work of time is irreplaceable.
- Finally, balance between the various Cognacs used in the blend. The art of the Master Blender is to select Cognacs whose different qualities complement each other, melting into a harmonious whole. Before bottling, it is therefore important to allow each component to mingle with the others, giving birth to a new Cognac.
It takes time for the wedding to be consummated, but once achieved, what a long-lasting and harmonious marriage!
Bernard Boisson now devotes himself fully to his Cognacs. His greatest joy is introducing them to international markets, from London to Los Angeles, passing through Geneva, Paris, New York and San Francisco... while waiting, in the not too distant future, for countries further afield. Dividing his time between his Paris home and his Saintonge property, he can at last give all his time to Audry, ensuring that they are at the forefront of high quality Cognacs.
Dominique PEYRAL-BON
Maison Audry
Le Fief Gallet - 17810 Pessines
Tél./Fax : +33 (0)5 46 92 65 38
10, rue du Commandant Rivière
75008 Paris
Tél./Fax : +33 (0)1 45 63 25 66
www.cognac-audry.com
